Norwegian Alpine Club takes ethical stance
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including “Fosslimonster” in Aurland.The recent new routes climbed by
When making the first ascent of Fosslimonster Jasper and Schäli placed nine belay and five protection bolts. Many Norwegian climbers considered this line the number one alpine challenge in the country, with a combination of thin ice on the introductory steep slabs and a band of large overhangs at mid height.
With traditional gear, climbing to the overhangs, only to discover they were too hard, would mean retreat, and this might be impossible as the ice below is normally too thin to place Abalakovs. Several activists realized that the route had the potential to move ice climbing to another level and had been waiting for the right conditions to arrive, shuning the use of bolts in the mountain environment.
In the past Norwegians have kept their achievements on homeground relatively low key. Now they feel it is time to make an announcement on how they want climbing in their country to be valued.
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